Tokyo, Japan

By Kate Betts

He may be the visionary behind some of the flashiest high-tech buildings in the Ginza district (Chanel's new 10-story flagship) or along Omotesando Avenue (Louis Vuitton's 36,000-sq.-ft. monolith), but when New York City--based architect Peter Marino heads to Tokyo, he seeks out the city's more traditional--and simple--sites, including the shitamachi, or low city. "This city is a succession of villages, and in each one the atmosphere is that of a different world," he explains. One of his favorite routes is from Waseda University down to the Minowabashi station on the Arakawa tram line. "It's a part of Tokyo that did not burn during World War II, so you can still find the small houses and the covered markets of the past," he explains. "And the people all know each other." Another favorite of his in shitamachi Tokyo, north of the Ikebukuro district, is Sendagi, where traditional shops sell Japanese paper, lacquer ware and shell combs. Some of these treasure troves are tucked in right next to Tokyo's busiest districts. Just 15 minutes from the Ginza, along the Sumida River, is Eitai, another village filled with mini-restaurants where only five people can sit. Another gem, the Kiyosumi Garden, is only a few blocks away from Kabutocho, Tokyo's Wall Street. "It was owned by a samurai who sold it to a rich merchant at the end of the 19th century," Marino says. "Later, beautiful huge stones were gathered from all over Japan and brought there. There is a lake and a teahouse on the lake where you can rent tatami and shoji at lunchtime." For the ultimate spiritual experience, Marino loves the sight of the pilgrims--or o-henro-san--in white gowns and large straw hats walking the 1,000-mile pilgrimage of the 88 temples on Shikoku Island, outside Tokyo. "These days, very few people still walk," says Marino. "Most prefer taxis, private cars or buses." That's modern Tokyo. --By Kate Betts