Apples Can Be More Than Delicious

By Lisa McLaughlin

The most popular fruit in North America, the apple has been cultivated for more than 3,000 years and has been historically important in a variety of ways. Newlyweds in the 7th century B.C. shared an apple as a symbol of a fruitful union; Aphrodite, the Greek goddess of love, was frequently represented holding an apple; and, of course, the apple was the forbidden fruit that got Adam and Eve expelled. But in the past few decades, in the U.S. at least, the apple has been trying to get back into our good graces.

Even though there are more than 7,000 types of apples in the world, only about 100 kinds are grown commercially on any significant scale in the U.S. The most popular variety has traditionally been the crunchy Red Delicious, which accounts for about 40% of apple sales in this country. Originally it was a fine, tasty fruit, but as it grew more popular, it began to be mass produced more for looks and hardiness than for flavor.

In response to the pleas of consumers and chefs who demand more flavor from their fruit, the Delicious is being slowly replaced by newer varieties of apples--such as the Braeburn, Pink Lady and Cameo--that not only look pretty but also taste good. Says Anna Maenner, executive director of the Wisconsin Apple Growers Association: "Every couple of years, there's a new variety that's coming out."

Some varieties, like the Winesap and the Maiden Blush, are antique apples with long histories. Others have become popular in recent years, like the pinkish-orange Gala, which was created by horticulturists in New Zealand who blended Golden Delicious with Kidd's Orange Red, an apple that itself is a hybrid of the British Cox's Orange Pippin and a Red Delicious. Japanese breeders crossed a Red Delicious with an heirloom variety called Ralls Janet to create the superlarge, supersweet Fuji, which ranks fifth in sales among varieties grown in the U.S.

Apple aficionados are seeking out the Honeycrisp, a progeny of the Macoun and Honeygold. Growers and eaters consider Honeycrisp the new star of the apple world. Applejournal.com is enthusiastic about its "crisp, dense, juicy, flesh that seems to explode in the mouth, and a wonderful balance of tart and sweet flavors." And these new breeds are already spawning their own offspring, such as the trendy Jazz, another New Zealand creation, which was bred from the fashionable Gala and the tasty Braeburn.

As winter drags on, specialty apples will get harder to find in most stores, so if you want to try one, act soon. You may not get another bite at the apple this season.

Find reviews of recent varieties at www.applejournal.com