A Side Trip to Portofino

By Gregory Burke/Portofino

When allied troops were in Genoa after World War II, MPs painted the words OFF LIMITS on some of the streets downtown in an effort to keep soldiers away from the city's petty thieves and prostitutes. Not much has changed since: some of the tiny alleys in the old part of this medieval port city, while picturesque, are best avoided. If you know where to go, you can still enjoy memorable shops and museums in Genoa--even if you're one of the thousands of business and government executives who will be joining President Bush and other heads of the world's major industrial economies next week at the annual Group of Eight summit.

But an even better spot to spend a day, or even a few hours, is about 20 miles down the coast. Tiny, brightly colored Portofino has long been one of Italy's most chic resorts. Gossip about the recent mysterious death of a wealthy countess is the only hint of crime you're likely to find in this town of extraordinary Mediterranean views.

Portofino can be reached by car or taxi (about $50 each way from Genoa, but negotiate the fare in advance). Ask the driver to take you to the main square, Piazza Martiri dell'Olivetta. Start your visit with a coffee or cocktail at La Grippa, a waterfront bar well situated for watching handsome strollers drawn by such nearby shops as Armani and Celine. But don't linger too long. Head for the town's friendly information office at Via Roma 35, just behind the piazza, and get maps for a bracing walk along the shore. A short path, 20 minutes each way, will take you past the church and castle of San Giorgio to the local lighthouse at the tip of a promontory. A longer hike brings you to the 10th century Abbey of San Fruttuoso. It's two hours each way--but worth every minute for the spectacular vistas.

On your return to town, relax with a fine lunch or dinner with a view of the port. On the main square, try Puny or the Taverna del Marinaio (the Sailor's Tavern). While both offer excellent fish, Puny takes no credit cards, and the Taverna del Marinaio may close without notice if the owner is competing in a regatta. Though it has no view of the port, La Concordia on Via del Fondaco is a favorite of the locals. The restaurant at Hotel Splendido, high above the town, offers outdoor seating. Local specialties include pasta with pesto or with salsa di noce, a nut-based sauce. A meal with wine costs about $60 a person. Nobody cares what you wear.

If you can't spare half a day for Portofino, you can still enjoy Genoa's art, architecture, sweets and shopping. Start with the 12th century Cathedral of San Lorenzo and the nearby Chiesa del Gesu, which houses two paintings by Rubens. A major exhibit of paintings and manuscripts, "Travel in Italy: a Magic March from the 1500s to the 1900s," at the Palazzo Ducale through July 29, features works by Michelangelo, Raphael, Tiepolo, Titian and other greats. On Via Garibaldi, you will find both the Palazzo Bianco and the Palazzo Rosso, two museums with excellent collections of Flemish and Dutch paintings.

One of the city's best pastry shops, Pasticceria Profumo on Via del Portello, offers candied fruits and a Genovese fruitcake called pandolce, as well as striking windows--one is decorated with wild berries, another with black and green olives.

The Genovesi are considered among the most elegant of Italians. While shirts at Finollo, a small store on Via Roma downtown, cost a whopping $315, the handmade silk ties are a good deal at $75. Just the thing to brighten one's outlook during an economic summit.

See our website time.com/global for more information on spending time in Genoa and Portofino