American Notes NATURE

After 17 years underground, they pop up to the surface by the zillions, covering large areas with a crunchy carpet of five-eyed, frail-winged critters, shedding their skins, singing like drunken maniacs and mating with an abandon that renders the word orgy insufficient.

They are cyclical cicadas, and this year it is Chicago's turn to endure a major uprising. As the city waited for the bugs to buzz forth last week, the insects became the talk of the town. As if the prospect of stepping on them were not revolting enough, University of Chicago ecology professor Monte Lloyd is urging people to eat them. Says he: "They are quite good, like avocado and new potato mixed." A sample recipe: dip cicadas in batter and fry until golden brown. Serve with cocktail sauce or sour cream, or use as a pizza topping.

Bon appetit!