Miracle Machines: Chefs' Delights

Some critics claim that the only cook who really needs a food processor is one who must feed a dozen lumberjacks three times a day. Others say they actively enjoy chopping and slicing. But James Beard, an early convert to the processor--and co-editor of a recipe book distributed with the Cuisinart--scoffs at "kitchen snobs who will not accept modern technological perfections. I'm perfectly certain were Escoffier or Montagne alive today, they would be happy to use a food processor." Indeed, many serious cooks say that short of a Bocuse in a bottle, the best friend they have is a processor.

There are more than a dozen on the market and new ones have been popping up every few weeks. Companies that make mixers have been adding attachments that will do the same tasks as food processors. Some 750,000 processors have been sold in the U.S. so far this year, with projected 1978 sales of 2 million. Herewith an evaluation of the most popular processors, listed in descending order of price, followed by the bestselling mixers that have processor attachments:

PROCESSORS

Robot Coupe R2 ($439). French prototype of the smaller Cuisinart, this is the household version of a restaurant model. Worth every cent for the home cook who entertains on a large scale and demands professional results.

Cuisinart CFP-5A ($225) and CFP9 ($160). The French machine that popularized all processors. Little difference between the two models, except that the more expensive version has a steel base (v. plastic for the cheaper one) and is a little faster. Compact, versatile, durable.

Waring ($160). American. Solid, especially safe machine with more sophisticated controls than Cuisinart, and more complicated to operate.

La Machine ($120 de luxe, $100 without blender). Another French import. A fast machine, but also the most complex; capacity too small.

Norelco ($110). American. Sleek, well built, performs all the functions of a Cuisinart, but is somewhat less durable. Best buy in its range.

Farberware ($99). Japanese-made. Slower than most, and some units seem mechanically quirky.

General Electric ($80). American. Lighter than most, it vibrates with heavy loads. Excellent for mousse, but only fair in chopping and slicing.

American Electric ($49). American. A Cuisinart copy, but slower, less solid and with smaller capacity.

MIXERS WITH ATTACHMENTS

KitchenAid K5-A ($294). American. Basically a baker's tool, it can perform nearly all processor functions, but does not have a blender. Solid and dependable, with ten different speeds.

Bosch Magic Mixer ($250). German. It performs all processor functions efficiently. Speedy, easy and versatile, but too bulky for the average kitchen.

Braun Kitchen Machine ($210). German. Well designed and durable; resembles the Bosch, only smaller.

Oster Kitchen Center ($150). American. Performs all processor functions, but is somewhat cumbersome and takes a lot of counter and storage space.

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