The Loose Look

While much of the world sweltered through high summer, the couturiers of Paris last week were busy unveiling their designs for the coming fall and winter.

By all signs, the dress -- in the billowing shape of the chemise -- will be making a curveless comeback this year on the frames of the fashion-conscious. The Loose Look is about to sweep in, complete with low hems, long sleeves and soft, yielding, body-skimming fabrics; the models swirling down the runways of Paris salons had the air of well-dressed and well-heeled extras in a 1930s movie.

The galactic attraction of the previews was Yves St. Laurent, perennial sun-prince of haute couture. Midst gypsy violinists and the Second Empire decor of his new couture house, St. Laurent presented a collection that left little doubt 1974 could turn into the year of the dress. Unlike the sad "sack" of the '60s, St. Laurent's Naive Chemise features more elegant tailoring, arm-length sleeves with tightly buttoned cuffs, high necklines and low, mid-calf hems. "For me, the chemise is an expression of freedom," said Libertarian Yves. "I wanted to make the fabric float over and just caress the body in a sensual way." The pathfinder who helped lead women to long pants some six years ago offered some manly trouser suits for evening wear, but it was clear that in Paris at least, pants were approaching the passe. Reported Women's Wear Daily: "Yves St. Laurent's Naive Chemise is the only real fashion message out of this season."

The loose chemise dominated almost all the Paris presentations. Givenchy brought forth a somewhat slimmer and more refined version with hems stopping just two inches below the knees. Dior's Marc Bohan played a variation on the theme, dubbed the Big Droop, while Cardin swooped in with an offbeat bat-winged dress featuring sleeves starting at the hem. Even Courreges, daddy of the mini, decorously draped the knee in this year's designs, threatening to leave mankind with nothing but fond memories of leg-watching.

Floppy hats, furs and knee-high boots (for both dresses and knickers) were frequent accessories. To drape over the dresses, designers introduced large, loose, shapeless coats and capes ranging from cardigan-small to something approaching a wraparound bedspread.

For the woman of arty ways and means, Dior's delineators were at the ready with a painter's smock.

Buyers from a score of countries were on hand in Paris to look over the fashion parade, and their reaction was a mix of ecstasy and caution. "It was the best couture season in ten years," said Ohrbach's Sydney Gittler. "The chemise will sweep America." Some, however, took a less upbeat approach. Gloomed Spoilsport Clovis Ruffin of Ruffinwear:

"The new Parisian chemise looks very old to me." Impoverished once by the midi superflop of 1970, other Yankee buyers announced plans to hike hemlines to more profitable altitudes or to use slinkier, clinging fabrics for the U.S. market. "People don't care about what Paris says," commented a liberated pro from one Chicago boutique. "It takes a while for things to filter down. Maybe by next fall it will make a difference--pants are what's selling now."

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