s on Her Fingers, Cs on Her Toes

Once, all a girl needed to get a monogram was a first and last name. Today, it is likely to cost her as much as $30 (imprinted on a scarf) to $475 (on luggage), and the initials aren't even her own.

But then her own never got her so much as an honorable mention on the best-dressed list, whereas a simple YSL (for Yves Saint Laurent) or a pair of Bs, back to back (for Bill Blass) spell instant class. No more fidgeting about in the theater, making sure the oldfashioned, inside-the-coat, Norman Norell label is draped visibly over the seat; no more calculated dropping of the $190 handbag, the better to reveal the Hermes plaque buried within. No longer the need to base chic upon a series of subtle clues--the interlocking bridle bit that makes the shoe a Gucci, the braid and chain that identify a Chanel suit. (Besides, these are easily copied, sold at half the price, and worn by absolutely anyone.) These days, if she cares enough to buy the very best, it's plainly written all over her.

Starting at the bottom, her girdle ($15) and bra-slip ($18) are signed by Emilio Pucci, her stockings, a symphony in mesh Vs, by Valentino. On the outside, looking In, there is Gucci's leather-bound shirtwaist dress, interwoven with an all-over pattern of the letter G--with matching luggage, no less. In scarves, conspicuous consumers can go the whole hog with the full names of Rudi Gernreich ($12), Donald Brooks ($22), or Geoffrey Beene ($28), or compromise--as Chester Weinberg did--with a silk strip spelling the first and more esthetic half of his name ($25). At the extremities, there are sailor berets with Adolfo's name on the band ($65), Cardin's C-studded pumps ($38), and a chain of dangling KJLs (for. Kenneth Jay Lane, $15) for a necklace. With a wave of her V-notched gloves, the lady is ready to meet her husband for lunch.

She will have no trouble spotting him, no matter how mad the crush. He has discarded his CM (Countess Mara) necktie as gauche, and switched to a new silk number that says, no fewer than 50 times, John weitz lord & taylor new york, John weitz lord & taylor new york, John . . .

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