The New Underworld

The sack. The sheath. The tunic. The tent dress. Each new look required a closetful of new clothes. But never has the housecleaning been as thorough. Now it appears, the very underworld of women's fashions has been unmasked, the standard lingerie wardrobe has been suddenly rendered obsolete.

For one thing, there is the question of how to keep underthings out of sight. Plunging armholes, cut-outs and open midriffs bare whatever necklines don't reveal. Yesterday's brassieres were sturdy supports; today they have become slim bands in the wispiest of fabrics, with halter straps for bareback dresses, and low sides for bib tops. Since the bare spots change from dress to dress, the bras are flexible, come with convertible straps that crisscross every which way for one-shoulder, no-shoulder, U, V or X decolletes. Panties have shrunk to bikini briefs; petticoats begin at the hip, are a scant 16 in. from top to hem (previous length: 24 in.).

For another, there is the problem of letting what must show be pretty. For that trim look, stocking manufacturers have lengthened hose to the full 38 in., are shortening the welt (reinforced stocking top) from 4 to H in.; Hanes, a leading stocking manufacturer, has eliminated the welt altogether. Another hosier has come out with "pecker" garters, which cover the stocking top with meant-to-be-seen lace; Dior has taken to decorating the top with flowers and Belle-Sharmer has stockings that fasten with snaps. Best solution slim girls have found is pantyhose, sheer tights that do away with girdle and garter (sales have already increased 20%), but even they are far from ideal-bag at the ankle when left loose, rip if they are pulled tight. As one young modern put it: "Let's face it; the only thing that really works is bare legs."

That looks fine on nymphets, but for the woman in need of support it can be downright embarrassing. Girdle manufacturers, however, are rising to the crisis with all kinds of artful camouflage. Some are disguising the unseemly with ruffles; others propose nylon bloomers and all-in-one outfits with built-in bra and legs like Jamaica shorts. If all this seems too much, the well-dressed woman can simply take her stand against the rising hemline and resist. But she may soon find herself in a dwindling minority. Dress Designer Mainbocher speaks comfortingly of "client length," but he admits that his skirts are a full inch shorter than last year, now just shadow the knee. And even Mrs. Wil liam Paley, secure in the Best-Dressed Hall of Fame, has heard the call: "I'm wearing mine slightly above the knee, but I honestly don't know what I'm going to do in the future."

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