In the Jungle of Love

Pro-Western Thailand, whose territory is guarded by U.S. troops, and neutral Cambodia, whose territory is scarcely guarded at all, are both neighbors of embattled Laos and South Viet Nam. But in this part of the world, the god Siva can still seem more important than the ghost of Karl Marx, and what goes on in the Red guerrilla-infested rain forests less urgent than the news from the Jungle of Love.

What is important about the Jungle of Love, a craggy mountain region on the ill-defined Thai-Cambodian border, is that it houses an 800-year-old Hindu temple. Called Phra Viharn by Thais and Preah Vihear by Cambodians, it lies in ruins at the end of a long, rutted road deep in the jungle. Because past treaties involving the area are vague, the two countries have long and passionately disputed ownership (although both are predominantly Buddhist). Finally, in 1959, Cambodia asked the International Court of Justice in The Hague to render a judgment.

Path to the Shrine. Since then, a million words of argument have been presented by distinguished lawyers, including former U.S. Secretary of State Dean Acheson, hired by the Cambodians, Britain's onetime Attorney General, Sir Frank Soskice, and Belgium's Henri Rolin, in the service of the Thais. Cambodia's case: a path leads from Cambodia directly to the shrine of Siva, the god to which the temple was dedicated; in 1930 and 1953, Cambodian officials went to the temple on pilgrimage picnics, establishing a sovereignty of sorts. Furthermore, an old French colonial map puts the temple in Cambodian territory.

The map is wrong, Thailand replied hotly, pointing out that the temple would never even have been found but for the explorations of Thai Prince Sanphasit in 1899. What is more, argued the Thais, the temple faces north; Cambodians have to use the back door, whereas Thai pilgrims use the stairs that rise to the front entrance.

Feeling rose between the two countries, aggravated by the fact that Thailand is always accusing Cambodia of providing jungle bases for Communist guerrillas. Last fall the two nations severed diplomatic relations after Thailand's Soldier Premier Sarit Thanarit likened Cambodia's Prince Norodom Sihanouk to a pig. In a speech, Sihanouk retorted that though he might look like a pig, Sarit was a fatter pig. If soup were made of the two leaders, sneered Sihanouk, the soup made from Sarit would taste better.

Buddhist Bliss. Undismayed, the Hague judges plowed through the transcript for 2 1/2 months after formal arguments ended, finally found (by 9 to 3) for Cambodia. When Prince Sihanouk heard the good news, he announced that he would shave his head and maintain a thanksgiving vigil for seven days and nights. But Thailand's Marshal Sarit summoned his military commanders, ordered reinforcements to the area of the temple, which at the moment is under Thai control. Thailand even ordered its diplomats to boycott the meetings of SEATO.

Then everything suddenly dissolved in Buddhist bliss. Sarit announced to a Cabinet meeting that a battle with Cambodia would be "fulfilling an objective of the Communists," and so Thailand will go along with the Hague court decision. This, he declared, was essential "to maintain our fine reputation in international affairs." After the Cabinet meeting, he told reporters: "We speak with tears. Many ministers wept."

In any case, Thailand has plenty of temples left. There are 30,000, one for every 866 Thais.

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