Mood under a Pine Tree

In India, even more than in most countries, it is hard to see the play of present politics in the scene of daily life. Young (31), pretty Margaret Parton of the New York Herald Tribune has eyes to see India's complicated story. Reporter Parton took a look at Koti State, in the Himalayan foothills, which holds an annual festival for the Hindu god Sipi:

The snake charmer, the drum beater, and the man who operated a crude wooden Ferris wheel were there in full force, as they and their ancestors had been for more than a century. The entrance to the sylvan temple of Sipi was decorated with paper flowers, as it always is.

To reach this hidden grove, European visitors from Simla, the nearest large town, had to travel two hours along mountain roads in four-man rickshas, then climb 3,000 feet down the mountain. They also had to climb up again.

Gear for the Rana. The Rana of Koti, however, rode in a sedan chair, as befitted the ruler of the Indian state in which the grove of Sipi is situated. To make the rural expedition bearable for the Rana and his guests, the princes from neighboring hill states, an enormous amount of paraphernalia had been carried over mountains by mule and coolie. This included three sofas, a dozen overstuffed chairs, 100 straight chairs, tents, doormats, 50 small tables complete with luncheon service, and two Victorian hatracks.

Despite all these comforts, the Rana, glumly watching the program of dancing and drumbeating, looked rather like a man who would have felt more at home in a 52nd Street nightclub. At one point he abruptly walked out on a hill woman who was trying to entertain him with a peasant love song, and stood moodily under a pine tree, twirling his waxed mustache until she was removed.

Explaining the Rana's distraction, his adviser confided that rulers of the 26 Simla hill states are deeply concerned these days over their future in the new India. To forestall any territorial demands by the powerful neighboring state of Patiala, he said, the rulers are considering a plan for federation.

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